I'm also completely fine ripping whatever this security system is but I'm worried that if I do while it's like this I won't be able to make the truck run again Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Also what is this module? It's on the pass side right behind the battery cause that top wire doesn't look factory..... Lol it plugs in the top post and someone was super lazy and just looped the red wire across the top of the bay and drilled and passed it into the cab Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
I know it's a lot of posts in a row in short time but I dug into it and found were the red wire goes which is spliced in with the security system wires then these 3 wires coming from the security box run under the dash to the pass side in to this mess of wires and these 2 relays Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Behind the battery is your factory starter solenoid. That red wire is what tells the solenoid to run the starter motor. The mess in the right passenger kick panel is for door lock controls. The other bundle with small wires going to a small box is vibration or shock sensor. What happens if you unplug the entire white connector from the security system? Will the truck start then? Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
From your pic it looks like some one bypassed the relay on the starter interrupt and quickly ran the red wire across the engine bay. If you can trace wires that come from the coil/pack then you can jump or re-connect that wire interrupted by that relay. It may be a case of a bad coil Or ignition control module I'm trying to remember exactly how those year engines were fired. It has a distributor right? Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Referenced that engine's firing type. Distributor, ignition module and coil. Hope you had luck with unplugging the main white plug. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Just tried up plugging the security box and the clicking stopped but it still doesn't catch and run Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Can you have someone crank it while you check for voltage at the positive and negative terminals on the coil/ignition module, not the high energy output to the distributor cap. If you're getting voltage to the coil/ignition module during cranking but no spark, either the ignition module or the coil is bad. Since that appears to be a generic security system, the original installer could have used several different methods of install. Is there another added on relay close to the one where the red starter wire is that breaks a larger gray with a yellow stripe wire? That would be accessory key on interrupted If you are not getting voltage at the coil/ignition module during cranking. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Simple test light will do, connect alligator clamp to negative side of coil and probe tip to positive terminal of coil. Be careful not to touch the high energy coil wire to distributor during cranking. This method will show that you have both a good ground and 12volt pulse signal. The test light should flash. If it does but no spark coil is bad. Find a working test coil to put in it's place before buying one . Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk