How To: Change a C.O.P.

Discussion in 'Tech Info' started by ak_cowboy, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. ak_cowboy

    ak_cowboy Penguin Hunter

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    My number 8 Coil on Plug was bad. Ordered a new one from Amazon for $16 shipped to my door. Only took about 10 minutes to swap out and the truck has no more shuddering.
    Unplug the clip, use a 7mm socket to take the bolt out, wiggle the COP off. Dab on a bunch of dielectric grease inside the plug and reinstall.

    Plug that gets unsnapped.
    [​IMG]

    New plug is Yellow
    [​IMG]

    Not much else to take pics of lol
     
  2. Tradesman

    Tradesman Full Access Member

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    What brand did you use? RockAuto has genuine Motorcrafts for $50 each, my dealer here charges $110 each. A set of Accels are $200. From what I have read and studied on various forums, the Motorcraft are the best. I've also seen MSDs for $500+. No thanks! Some guys running Accels are doing well with them so far. I'm sort of torn between the two.
     
  3. ak_cowboy

    ak_cowboy Penguin Hunter

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    I think it was Accel, I got mine off of Amazon for like 15 bucks

    sent from my igloo
     
  4. Tradesman

    Tradesman Full Access Member

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    How are you able to determine which one is bad? I'm trying to find out which one of mine is/are bad. Thanks!
     
  5. AKBray907

    AKBray907 SUPER *********.

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    Use a code reader and it'll tell you what cylinder is misfiring. Another way to tell is to unplug the clip that goes into the cop. Use a multimeter and measure resistance across the two contacts, all the cops should be within ~5% of each other, if one isn't it is going bad or wearing out.

    Motorcraft is the best to go with these motors, even fully built motors most guys still run motorcraft. Accel used to have awesome stuff in the 70s, 80s even early 90s but they've gone Chinese quality like many companies. Some people luck out with them an others don't, any coil could have issues but you're far less likely with genuine motorcraft stuff. Most motorcraft coils have been on our trucks for 100-150k miles and you even see then frequently at 200-250k miles original, so that should say alot about them.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2013
  6. Tradesman

    Tradesman Full Access Member

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    Brother, thank you very much for the info! I'm going to replace mine pretty damn soon. Truck has been shuddering so much from misfiring. Damn!
     
  7. ak_cowboy

    ak_cowboy Penguin Hunter

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  8. Tradesman

    Tradesman Full Access Member

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    I replaced all 8 of my ignition coils today. I ordered them from RockAuto, spent the extra money on express shipping and they were here in two days! I spent a total of $450 on them. The local dealership wanted $110/each plus taxes, so basically $1,000 for the set not including labour. Well, labour was my own and it was quite easy.

    To expand on the instructions, be sure to clean the area around each coil! I had quite a bit of dirt in mine and I didn't think of cleaning it out. Unfortunately I wasn't at home so I didn't have access to my air compressor or anything like that. You can squeeze the release tab on the socket leading to the ignition coil to separate the two. Do each ignition coil one by one, and it wouldn't hurt to number them as well. The factory Ford coils have dielectric grease installed inside the boot already, so there is no need to add anymore. Also, disconnect both the driver-side and passenger-side PCV hardlines to give yourself more room. Just squeeze the green tabs together and pull the hardline up. Be very, very careful as these are fragile and if they break you will need to replace them immediately. On the passenger-side it will be necessary to remove the PCM from the firewall to give yourself more room. You will need a 10mm socket for the four bolts that hold the PCM to the bracket and then there are three bolts that hold the bracket to the firewall. If you have a battery cover like I did, you will need to remove that as well, which requires disconnecting the battery.

    Overall it took me about an hour with bulls**t handtools as I didn't have access to my airtools. The local labour rate at the dealership here is $125/HR so I saved quite a bundle by doing this myself. Be sure to check the fitment of each boot and the positive hold of each socket before you button things up. Double check it all! My miss is completely gone and the truck doesn't shudder like it used to. The revs as much nicer now and aren't erratic like they were before. If I have time I will post a short vid of my revving my engine. I wish I had taken a before vid.

    Special thanks to AK Cowboy and everyone else involved in this write up. Save yourself some money brothers, do this yourself and do it right.
     
  9. TxFx04

    TxFx04 FFS Frequent Traveler

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    So does a misfire usually throw a code and CEL? and is it usually a Cop going out?
     
  10. MyFX4Project

    MyFX4Project TRUCKIT

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    It doesn't always throw a code. My friends 05 was missing terrible when he bought it. No code or nothing. Turns out he had a bad coil and dealership fixed it real quick.
     

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