I'm really hoping the previous owner did something wrong with the distributor when he put a new rotor and cap on it or he might have adjusted the timing thinking he would gain something, that would definitely be giving me this crank sensor code.
Play in both front tires, suspected bad besrings. Bought a set of national bearings and new rotors. Pulled bearings, brand new timken bearings and seals. Guy didn't seat them properly. Cleaned them, packed them and installed in new rotor/hub assembly and seated them properly. No movement now! Working on timing now. Looks like they marked the "0*" mark on the balancer but not the "10*" mark like most do. Didn't have s chance to check the timing before work, might do it when I get off.
That poor truck, glad it's in good hands and away from the PO and his half done mechanics. Galaxy S4 Cetane Powered Android
It's going to be brand new when I'm done with it lol Needs body mounts up front pretty bad, next on the list. Kit is pretty cheap, around $50. I need to get this check engine light fixed first. Checked the timing today, it's spot on.
9th gens have a tendency to throw codes even when there's nothing wrong. And they often won't read on scanners either (I deal with a lot of these trucks at work) Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
I was having timing/ignition issues with my 95 5.0 mustang. One of the issues was the pip sensor in the distributor, the other was the ignition coil, bad spark plug wire, idle was out of adjustment, as well as a bad iac valve, and bad ignition module. Not one single code, or CEL even though countless forums were saying codes should have been thrown. Maybe that's another problem I'm going to battle, but we will cross that bridge when the time comes ha ha. I'm starting to realize that obd1 may not be as reliable as obd2.. Imagine that ha ha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What's this sensor inside the distributor ? I've read there could be an issue with that, that could be possibly be causing this crank code.
The pip sensor is what the eec uses to measure the rpm. I think they call it a hall sensor or pickup coil also. It's inside the distributor and supposedly it's a b-word to replace, so much so that its recommended just the replace the distributor (about $100) The distributors for the f150 and the mustang are different part numbers but I think they are very similar. The 5.0 ignition control parts are very finicky, there's a lot of info out there with very similar symptoms and diagnosis for both the mustang and the f150. My symptoms were: Low idle (caused by a poor base idle adjustment when the 70mm bbk TB was installed with a bad iac valve done by the PO) Stalling (most common causes are the pip or the tfi) Misfire (melted spark plug wire) Here's the list I went down with all new parts: New plug wire New TFI module (ignition control) New Ignition coil New iac valve Reset base idle and adjusted my throttle position sensor Pulled the spout connector to check base timing (it was good) New distributor I suppose these could throw a crank or a misfire code. But like I said, I never had any codes, the CEL flashed a couple of times when the TFI/pip was going bad but I never got a code so I can't compare codes with you ha ha. I still don't know of the tfi or the pip is what was causing my stall problem either. But after I did everything I just listed I haven't had a single hiccup. So if you're having similar symptoms then the distributor/pip might have you on the right track. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The truck runs great for the most part. Slight vibration and a code is all I've got. Trucm starts right up with no issues. Only other thing I notice is i have a small amount of smoke coming from he tail pipe when I slam the gas. Pulled the crank sensor off today and ran the teuck, no difference in performance, same crank code. Testes the wires for the sensor near the pcm, got a resistance reading if 340ohms there is supposed to be a value out there that the crank sensor is supposed i read at but I can't find it.
