S**t brother, that looks all hacked up to f**k. Spend the extra money and get yourself a real plug-n-play kit.
It's 3 simple wires cut. Did you even read the thread? Obviously I spent the money on true hid projectors to get rid of the hids and I'm Trying to fix the mistake I made when I got hids. I'll have to figure out which wire is which in the projector harness
Does your Morimoto look like this? I don't see a wiring connector for the HID bulb shield on this pic of Morimoto 3 five 35watt ballasts. Maybe yours is different. There should be a smaller 3rd or 4th wire connector coming out of the ballast that goes to the HID bulb if it is a "low and high" beam setup. If there are only two wires coming out of the HID bulb itself then they are "low beam" only, 3 or 4 wire HID bulbs are "high and low" beams. The two smaller wires are for the shield that lowers the plasma light output (low beam).
Copied this from the TRS site: 7. Low beam or Bi-xenon Projectors: When choosing a bulb from TRS, it does not matter whether you are using low beam or bi-xenon projectors. Unlike halogen headlights, with bi-xenons, nothing happens to the bulb when the high beams are activated. It does not get any brighter or shift positions. Simply put: you don't need "low beam" or "bi-xenon" specific bulbs. Our S2K-R low beam projectors and FX-R bi-xenons both use "D2S" bulbs.
Rousch, I believre I had 2 wires I didnt use.. Since its an H1 bulb it fits many different vehicles using the hniversal h1. Then out of the harness is a plug that goes into the oe plug. Dylan it may be smart to go to oreillys and get a new plug so its not ghetto wired up
Can't be as bad as I've seen bandaids on car wiring before. Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk now Free