Basically you have 5 choices for differentials 1. Open. This is the way most differentials are, one wheel power basically. 2. Limited Slip/Positrac/TractionLoc: (All basically the same) Much better than an open, these use a clutch mechanism to provide power to both wheels, yet still allowing "limited slip" for going around corners and such. This is what you have now. Looks like this:Ford 8.8 Trac Loc 3. Automatic Locker (Detroit, lockrite, aussie locker, lunchbox locker) This is what most people refer to when they say locker. This type locks both axleshafts together, making both tires fully powered, while allowing one side to spin faster than the other. This results in some noisiness going around corners and such as the locker rachets one wheel faster than the other. An automatic locker will also result in some driveability issues, as it is much easier to spin out on a slick surface due to both tires losing traction instead of just one 4. Selectable Locker: (ox, ARB, ected, e-locker) These are the best of both worlds, they function as a open (or limited slip in the case of the ected) until more traction is needed, and with the flip of a switch or lever, they function as a locker. This is what many factory optioned lockers are. These are really nice, but the downside is the price, most are close to a grand just for the unit, plus the more complicated install. 5. Spool: (Mini spool, welded spiders, lincoln locker) Not for a well mannered street truck, this permanently locks both axles together. Tires will squeal around the slightest of corners, tire wear is greatly accelerated, and its really hard on your axle shafts. You hear of someone welding up a rear, this is what they are talking about. Hope this helps
The way I've figured out gears for our trucks and 35s is pretty simple. If its a pavement princess you want 4.10s. Rpms are down for cruising and it gets you back to stockish 3.90s. If your off-road regularly, you want 4.56s. Better acceleration and more "power" as soon as you get into it. That being said, I'm keeping my stock 4.10s when I upgrade to 35s. I need to get a video of what I can do with those and 31s on wet pavement Almost like driving in snow lol My clutch pack is also going out in my factory LSD and I'm planning on the Detroit Truetrac. I don't get off onto the trails that often (too big...) and spend most my time on the pavement or towing. Hope that helped
Sounds like 4.10s is what I need. I aint doing any trail riding, just around the yard and stuff like that.
My stock tires were 265/60r18s and my new ones are 305/40r22s. Will 4:10s make up that difference and plus more? Cause that's only a 31.65 wheel compared to the stock 29.5
4.10s will definitely make up the difference. I have 265/70R17s with 4.10s and spin 2000rpm at about 63mph. You'll have a quicker 0-60 but lower top end. My 60 time was just under 8 seconds (when I could hook) and I top out at about 113mph on flat. I should get a video of me vs my dads truck. He has an 06 screw/6.5 with the 5.4 and 3.73s. The only extra mods I have are intake (JLT vs Gotts) and my exhaust (Glasspack vs stock) We both weigh about 6300lbs at a scalehouse, so that's pretty fair. I get the holeshot and run him until about 75, then he starts pulling away. Its a good race either way
Yep, I got the 5.4. Its been awhile, but i'm not too far ahead, his front bumper is probably right at my rear bumper. I'll try and get a vid this weekend when I go home.
Lol no problem, we're both 4x4 also. I have the manual transfer case and he has the electric. Me: Scab/8ft 4x4 with 4.10s. 5.4 with Edge lvl 2, JLT intake, Glasspack Exhaust. ~6300lbs Him: Screw/6.5 4x4 with 3.73s. 5.4 with Edgle lvl 2, Gotts+K&N, Stock Exhaust. ~6300lbs I've got about 1.0 sec faster to 60 but he gets me on the top end. MPG is about the same in city, but he's pulled over 19 highway and I can't break 18mpg.
looks like it may be 4.10's for me then because if you had 35's and ur 4.10's i think you would pull on him the whole way. wat is his tire size
