Sounds like a valve not closing? Had a "pop" sound on the FE 360 2V. Took the heads to Race Engine Design and had them reworked, hot tanked, magnafluxed, new guides, new springs, Manley valves. They told me the valve seats were well worn and it took a little longer to fix those areas. Put the heads back on and every once in a while I still hear that "pop" not as frequent or as loud now.
i hope it aint a damn valve lol ill try some seafoam today and see what that does. if it dont work ill see if i can get my hands on a scanner that will run real time data and see if i can find out what cylinder is missing. when the hose busted my problems were all at bank #1 i got specific misfire codes for cylinder 3 & 4 so ill start there. this is such a pain when the truck isnt throwing any codes.
Compression test and leakdown test could help isolate the potential problem without the real time data scanner. But it may not be valve/ring related.
i think my buddy has a compression tester. may have to borrow it. i just put 3/4 bottle of seafoam in the vacuum line and the rest in the tank. i did hear some hissing though on the drivers side of the engine. i think i may have another hose busted or maybe i pulled one loose when i was wiggling hoses the other day. i only noticed the truck miss 1 time on my 15 minute drive. the truck still has all the power in the world so i dont understand it lol. lets see how the seafoam does.
alright seafoamed the truck. ran like **** when i started it up. stomped on the gas out the driveway and the thing would barely go, ive never had that happen to me when ive seafoamed in the past. it usually struggles to idle but when i hit the gas it goes leaving a nice cloud behind me. few hundred feet and the truck ran fine. it idles great and did before i put the seafoam in. it idles around 700RPM and the needle stays put, it doesnt fluctuate. i took the truck around the block and it didnt miss once but that dont mean its fixed. ill have to do some driving today and see whats going on. by the way, is the IAC supposed to have some sort of gasket material around it? i noticed when i took it off there was a small amount of stuff on it but it wasnt sealed at all, figured it was just built up dirt or something.
Depends on the IAC, If yours is aluminum body to aluminum intake area I'd say there needs to be something between to prevent a vacuum leak. I have made gaskets out of cereal box paper or similar. Drawn out the outline and used an Exacto knife to cut it out. The 3.0 Mazda Tribute had a silicone gasket in the recessed area on the IAC body that connects to the manifold. On the Ranger 3.0 the resin paper gasket is mated to the manifold and there is no recess in the IAC body.
pretty sure its all aluminum. i know we talked down using RTV as a gasket but i wonder if that would work for that small area.
Go for it. If using Ultra Black it says: "Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours. Gaskets are best formed using a 1/16" to 1/4" bead." I'd say it will cure better if the parts are "room temp". You could use a hair dryer to warm the parts if the engine is Michigan cold.
umm yea the engine is michigan cold. i just called my buddy at the auto part store. he said they make a gasket for it but it comes in a kit with a new IAC for like $50. my IAC is fine so im not going that route. he told me has may have some laying around his garage. ill see what i can find, if not he said they sell gasket rubber at the store.
with that hissing you said you have i would assume that something is not sealed properly. i would start with the iac and get that area cleared off with new gasket first plus make sure all hoses are tight and secured. like you said, one may have came loose when you jiggled it.
