check all your connections to make sure they are tight. if this happens while driving, then your turn on wire may be loose somewhere
Of all the systems I've professionally installed, (MECP) I have never heard of this problem or had a returning customer complaint. Researching I found a couple proposed solutions. Turn on delay circuit for the remote turn on (blue) wire to the amp. A simple switch that you turn the amp on with after the head unit powers up, or to turn the amp off first before shutting down. Other suggestions are to ground the head unit directly to the battery.
Thanks man, Ill try the switch, that might help. If not, it will give me the ability to reset the amp if it does happen. as far as the ohms, ive never heard of matching ohms to an amp, isnt that only speaker dependent? like a 4 ohm gets more power than a 2 ohm? or vise versa? like i said, im a novice when it comes to stereos, im sure I would have learned more along the way, but ive never had an issue to allow me to learn more ha ha. it has always been plug and play. Ill check the grounds, and re check all my connections (thats the first thing i did) I also upped the gauge of speaker wire to 8. Could that have anything to do with it, maybe i need even a bigger wire, ive always had 10s, does a single 12 pull more power?
The lower the ohm load the more power the amp can send. 2 ohm stable amps should be wired for 2 ohm sub load. Two four ohm single voice coil speakers should be wired in parallel to achieve a 2 ohm load. A four ohm single voice coil sub on a 2 ohm stable amp will have about 3/4 of the rated watts for that amp. To a certain limit, a 2 ohm stable amp will run very hot or burn out on a 1 ohm speaker load. If you have the Alpine MRP-M650 it is rated at 2ohm stable. The Alpine 12" sub, did it have two terminals or four voice coil terminals on the back of the speaker? Using a multimeter set to 20 ohm scale, disconnect the speaker wires from the amp and measure the ohm load across the two speaker wires, this will be the easiest way to check the ohm load of the sub without unloading it from your speaker box.
It has 4 terminals, and two jumper wires. I tried to look up the item number on my eBay when I bought it, but I'll have to check the manual when I get home to double check the model.
Yeah im guessin if u dont know much about ohms, they are wired wrong. Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
Could be, but I wired them per manuals specs for a one sub one amp application. Pos to pos, neg to neg, and on the sub side I jumped the second pos and neg terminals. to the others. I'll have to get the correct ohms on the amp and the sub when I get home.
I think i have a problem with mine now, just gonna thorw it out there, but i can be rocking out and the subs are bumpin real good then they cut out and i want like a minutte or 2 then theyll kick back on. any ideas?
My guess, Sounds like the thermal limiter is engaging. An auto protection circuit that cuts the power when an overheating situation is occurring. What equipment, setup do you have?
