Been looking at parts on modularmotorsports.com and found this rotating assembly.. (just copy and pasted it here because link is all products on one page) MMR Street Mod 600 Forged Rotating assembly*( 96-2010 2v or 3V )This is everything you need except a block to assemble a complete forged shortblock, this kit has the same parts as the MMR Street Mod 600 shortblock but in a do it yourself kit. -Available in all piston oversizes for 1996-2009 2V or 3V Specify 6 or 8 bolt crankshaft -Includes:600 HP Ford Racing Cast Iron Crankshaft (6 or 8 bolt) -MMR 4340 Forged I-beam Rods with ARP HARDWARE-up to 750HP -Manley Forged Pistons with tool steel Pins -Total Seal Rings -Clevite Performance Rod and Main bearings
I've heard MMR is a reliable company and knows a lot about the modular motors but do you need a rotating assembly rated for up to 600 horses when you are going for half of that?
Yea you don't need that stuff, a stock crank an rods will be perfect for your application, what compression ratio you shooting for?
Idk much about CR. When it comes to engines I'm a n00b lol I know how they work and what CR is, but I'm not sure what a good number is to shoot for. Less dish in piston equals more compression but I don't want to much or too little just a mild in-between. Probably something like 10:1 or 10.5:1 but that's a shot in the dark.
You could get to 10.5:1 with some flattops and decked heads but you'd have to use premium fuel. But at that point I would go with a little more aggressive cam , I think stock their like 9.5:1 even.
Wow, I thought I knew a little bit about engines when it came down to it.... I feel like I just read a foreign language. haha
My heads have been resurfaced if that's what you mean by decked. If I went with flat top pistons though would I have issues with piston/valve clearance since I'm also putting cams in?
Find out how much they took off if you can. As long as everything is set up right and matched and your cams are degreed right you shouldn't have any issues, at no time when the piston is at the top of the cylinder should a valve be open, now if you were running a huge cam with a huge duration like 292 then you could have issues because of how much timing you have to add in but also keep in mind it varies per engine
I don't know how much they took off. The guy I bought them from bought them from some guy and he didn't know.. confusing I know but they are in good shape and already had a valve job. Do you think ill need new springs if I go with a mild cam? Or does that depend on the specific cam?
Depends on the cam, usually above like around 500 lift its a good idea for new springs. Keeps you from floating a valve, I have comp cams double springs on my fastback
