Next I installed the HIDs for the headlights and fogs from Jon To. Piece of cake, cranked up first try. 5000K temp, they look great and are stupidly bright...150% improvement over stock. Here's some pics of where I mounted the ballasts and relay....I didn't want to see them anywhere in the engine bay. Headlight ballasts. Drilled out the mounting bracket so I could use a bolt that was conveniently right next to the headlight housing. Did this for both sides. You can see how the ballast fits perfectly when the headlight housing is reinstalled. Relay hidden by the shroud. I mounted the relay using a bolt I'm using for a relay for the off road lights, which is located on the other side of the support member. Also grounded it to the bolt. Ballast for the fogs were mounted using a bolt from a bracket for the bumper. It's nice and hidden/tucked away. Headlight reinstalled. Nice and neat. HID vs. Stock...crappy pics sorry
The H3C HIDs for the offroad lights. It was too damn cold to take pics of the conversion to HIDs in the off road lights at the time but PM me if you need info Went back and neatened up all the wiring. The the wires I've run for everything are loomed for a nice factory look Installed 5000K temp color LEDs for the driving lights to match the HIDs
AAL from Autospring First things first, place the truck in park, e-brake, and block the front wheels. Jack the rear axle up and support it with jack stands. Remove the tire. There are 4 nuts for the U bolts. Remove these. Air tools definitely help since the nuts have a thread locker on them. Remove the lower bolt on the shock. Now to remove the 2 centerpins holding the leaf pack together. It's a good idea to place 2 C-clamps on the leaf pack before doing so (which I forgot to do on the first side). If you're lucky you can use vise grips to grasp the heads of the centerpins underneath the leaf pack and remove the nuts. Mine, however, due to northern salty roads, were stuck on and trying to remove the nuts just results in the centerpins spinning with them even with vise grips. I talked to another member here and he has the same issue as well. You have 2 options. Take a torch and heat them up, or take a cut off wheel and split the nut in 2. I chose to split the nut. Cut down the center of the centerpin and nut. Now it's time to lower the rear axle on this side. This is where C-clamps are first useful because the leaf pack will spring apart the second the axle moves away. Leafs should be stacked according to size, with the longest on top. Also, the longer half of the leaf from the centerpin holes should face the rear. The Autospring leafs are sandwiched in between the bottom leaf and one above it. Lower the axle about 6-8" and remove the block (if you have a 4x4) Use the C-clamps to compress the leaf pack back together and install the 2 centerpins included with the kit. MAKE SURE THE LEAFS LINE UP STRAIGHT WITH EACH OTHER. Next add the block back ontop of the axle and jack the axle back up to the leaf pack. Make sure the centerpin heads seat themselves in the 2 holes in the block. Reinstall the U bolts and lower shock bolt, then tire. It's a good idea to retighten everything after 300 miles. Before, just over 8" of wheel gap. After, about 10" of gap
nice job man, i can tell you like to do things the right way where did you mount the ballasts for the off-road lights?
Thanks, I mounted the 4 ballasts for the offroad lights behind the grill in front of the tranny cooler.
Just ordered my Mag Hytech diff cover and gallon+1 quart of 75w-140 synth Gonna take the grinder with a wire brush and clean up the axle then spray it with bed liner
