09+ Column to Floor Shifter Conversion (HOW TO)

Discussion in 'Tech Info' started by 2011F150, Oct 15, 2012.

  1. 2011F150

    2011F150 Full Access Member

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    Okay guys anyone with an 09+ xl/xlt and would like to have the center console shifter it can be done. I have spent hours on the web and have found (1) post about this over on F150online.com worthless thread he shows pictures of it and asks a few questions about wiring but shares nothing.

    Before
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    Before
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    My goal is to make this as simple to explain as possible. There maybe a few little steps i took that were over kill and there might be some that i don't even list. However ill do my best to list things step by step with a few crapy photos from my crappy 3GS Iphone i know a little behind in the tech huh.....

    Well here it goes first im going to list all the parts as closely as possible there are still a few pieces i lack.


    Invetory List: (TP)=Tascaparts.com

    Raptor Console (EBAY) $140
    Rapter shifter (TP) $188.32
    shifter cable $35.00
    closure panel W/FLOW THROUGH CONSOLE Right (TP) $11.23
    closure panel W/FLOW THROUGH CONSOLE Left (TP) $14.10
    front bracket W/FLOW THROUGH CONSOLE, CONSOLE PARTS (TP) $19.36
    Rear Bracket optional i had the console jump seat and i used the aluminum bracket that was already there worked perfect drilled two holes and wala
    (2) rolls of 20 guage wire stranded (Orielly's) $12.50
    wire connectors/quick connects (Orielly's) $6.00 +/-

    (havent bought yet)
    Steering column covers
    side panel W/FLOW THRU CONSOLE, inner, obsidian metallic Right (TP) $95.22
    side panel W/FLOW THRU CONSOLE, inner, obsidian metallic Left (TP) $57.78
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  2. 2011F150

    2011F150 Full Access Member

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    First steps make sure first you have all your wire and connectors along with at min. your shifter cable, shifter, console.

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    Start by removing either your jumpseat/console or console whichever your wanting to replace with the flow through.

    There are several peices of plastic on the dash you must remove from the bottom side. Be very careful here cause some peices have snap in's with screws on some sides (ford parts are not cheap to replace) FYI on top of the radio controls there are two hidden screws under the mat sitting by the INFO screen. (remember pull gently and from atleast two different points of pressure)


    Then move on to your seats go ahead and remove both the passenger and driver side bolts in the front (gentle with the seats as they mostlikely have airbags in them as mine do 2011). and remove the inside bolt on the back side of the seats and loosen the outside bolt about half way. Remove front 2 bolts, loosen the outside remove the inside.
    This will allow easier access to drill your new holes on the existing aluminum bracket. (Have a shop vac handy those shavings are tough to get out)

    On this step after looking at it with my console installed im not so sure its necessary i think i could have left them in. Someone with a Lariet or up should chime in here and let us know if they have those as well or not. May reinstall them when i get my other peices for my flow thru.
    After the seats can be swivelled around pull your carpets up fron both sides and remove your existing a/c tubes coming from the bottom of the console and extending underneath your front seats.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  3. 2011F150

    2011F150 Full Access Member

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    Thats pretty much the easy part and pretty much it for the removal, i may have left out a few pieces that have to be removed but use your own judgement on which ones pretty straight forward on that part.

    2nd step (reletively hard) While your floor is pulled up with the console removed still continue to pull back on the carpet until you find the two holes for your front mounting bracket they are covered with a piece of tape in the shape of a circle remove those and proceed to either cut or poke holes in the carpet and sound matting. try not to make them to large. As for a bolt my bracket didn't come with any so i pulled my bolt junk pile out and helped myself too a couple of bolts with nuts and lock washers as they will be pointed straight down vibration and gravity will work against you.
    Getting the nuts and bolts inplace is a HUGE HUGE PITA you have hardly any space for your hands i actually had my wife 5' tall and hands like a child get down there and hold the lock washer and nuts in place while i screwed them in from the top use a wrench a Rachet will not fit on the top side of the tranny.

    Once thats inplace and bolted down good grab your center console and there are two screws that attach to the sides of that bracket. After mounting those move back to your bottom bracket. There are holes on either side of your console use those to sight in the drilling spots and it my be a good idea to mark it and drill the holes without the console there because your air vents on the flow thru are right behind both sides of your drilling bit. Once done clean out all your shavings and vacum well they don't feel good on the elbows or knees trust me.

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    Finish bolting them in snug and make sure everything is tightly in place.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  4. 2011F150

    2011F150 Full Access Member

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    3rd Step (PLEASE APPLY PARKING BREAK) and for extra saftey BLOCK ONE TIRE off good. (PLEASE DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY) air bag saftey

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    This picture shows where the old shifter cable was attached that little nipple in the center of the picture. Plus some of the wires inside your steer column.

    Pull the bottom plastics off your steering column (3) screwed on the bottom plastic peiece and the top one snaps on the front and with a hook on the back side. disconnect your cable only at this point from your column shifter and pull down to the floor and pull the rubber gramet dont mess it up and you could possibly resell this whole cable new it cost ($75) or so dealers are more.

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    Next go under the truck (hence why i wanted you to block of the truck) no on the cables there are tiny pin holes on the metal brackets holding the cable in place use a small flat tip and push and pull it up at the sametime. As for the cable attached to the tranny it looks like there would be a clip or something but it is just pressed on use two larger screw drivers and pry both sides at the same time for easiest and most effective removal. Toss aside and grab your new one push one end through the hole (by the way that is under the center of the dash so no new hole needed) as you will of already seen your new cable already has a rubber gramet so no need to try and remove the original just simply replace it all. After all thats attached and in place you can fenagle it through to where your shifter will be sitting and let it rest there for now.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  5. 2011F150

    2011F150 Full Access Member

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    4th step (The "FUN PART") WIRING.

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    As you have probobly already seen my freaked out panick attack when i realized id done all this work without even checking for the wire harness that supposively lays behind the center dash somewhere. well let me tell you its wishfull thinking or atleast so with my which is a fairly loaded out XLT 4x4 Offroad package and chrome package sync package and the 4.2LCD information screen. It wasn't there much to my surprise spent an hour looking gave up and started following wires around the steering column (again be careful with the air bag sensors around the steering never know what might set them off). I had no issues with them though.

    There are two seperate places your have to tap/hard wire i say tap for the bottom side and ill get to that in a minute but for now you will have realized your shifter has 10 wires and your other side has 5 on top and 4 on bottom of the steering.

    Ill blow your mind with another fact we found out. On the top connector the Solid Green does absolutely nothin evedentally for one of the other accessories my XLT doesn't have. Anyways

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    FYI you have to reconnect your bat. if you want to test obviously......
    I started by tested everything wire by wire whats hot whats not finding my grounds will im going to let you all in on my secret wireing set up hopefully your colors on your column will match mine and your colors on your shifter will match mine as well. because NONE of the colors match up.

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    The Emtpy connector is the one running into the column shifter controlling the T/H and Manual Shift switches. thats the TOP side
    Top Of Steering column (I HARD WIRES ALL OF THESE WIRES)

    Truck side = shifter side

    Solid Green = OPEN
    Brown = Black
    Grey = Both Whites wired together
    Green Stripe = Brown
    Yellow = Black

    FYI both your blacks are ground and you will have to possibly swtich them up to make it work properly there no way to describe which is which they are both ground but must be on the correct one, i would hard wire all the others and do a test run with the grounds.

    As for the rest

    Bottom Side of Steering wheel (I TAPPED THESE WIRES DON'T CUT THE CONNECTOR OFF)
    If you do you will get your key locked into your key hole untill the connector is reconnected. Its okay don't panick on me yet. If it happens just plug the connector back it turn it to the on position and then off again and pull your key out.

    Now I spliced all (4) of those wires to allow me to reconnect the connector and have the key lock out not engage on me i didn't feel like figuring that part out and running a seperate wire you can if you like and have that kinda time but i have found it works just fine by leaving it attached and tapping your wires.

    Bottom :

    Truck side = Shifter side

    Blue = Orange
    White = Red
    Green = Blue
    Black = Black


    As you will notice you will have (1) misc. wire left should be a thicker wire as well and Blue this is your lights now i took those and wired directly to my dimmer switch that way it comes on with my auto lights and dims and brightens as well i don't recall the color i attached too but if you use a tester you should be able to figure it out fairly easily.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2012
  6. 2011F150

    2011F150 Full Access Member

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    After all the electrical is set TEST everything before you mount things in place you will have to manually shift the tranny into Manual mode to test your upshifts and downshifts.

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    Thats pretty much it no reverse the installation oh i would vacum and clean the carpet really well under the seat you would be amaized at the amount of dirt and aluminum shavings from the two holes you drilled make a mess of you carpet and every other small tight spot they can reach. Good luck with the install hope this helps someone looking to do this. I will be on here freaquently PM me or reply here i try to check a couple of times each day just to keep up with you guys.

    Happy MODDING! Ill take final pics once i get it all painted and the new inner dash peices won't be long end of the month probobly.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  7. TxFx04

    TxFx04 FFS Frequent Traveler

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    hey is your interior grey? if so i'll take your other console off your hands lol
     
  8. 2011F150

    2011F150 Full Access Member

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    yes it is grey the console has 6 cup holders with two seperate compartments and has a shoulder restraint seat belt on it. Im tryin to get atleast $150 for it planning to post it on Ebay shortly, but if you want it and pay shipping or pick it up whichever ill take $125 for it from someone on here just to help somebody out on here. Its in good shape needs the top hand clip like $6-7 replaced. Oh and it has a lighter slot on the back of it but i used the actual lighter itself on my new one.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2012
  9. TxFx04

    TxFx04 FFS Frequent Traveler

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    dude hold on to it, i just got a job so once i start getting paid i'll take it off your hands. i'm pretty sure it'll bolt up to an 04-08
     
  10. BlackThundah

    BlackThundah Aka LilWhiteFiddy

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    Great thread. I like the way that center console looks a whole better than the old one.
     

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