Audio N00b here....

Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by MyFX4Project, Aug 15, 2013.

  1. MyFX4Project

    MyFX4Project TRUCKIT

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    Been looking into audio as my next upgrade. All speakers are stock, headunit is some JVC thing that came with the truck when i bought it. Dont know anything about it. I dont want the loudest audio system in the city with the most boom boom bass or anything i just want nice, clean, music. Mostly listen to rock or country with a lil rap when im feeling gangsta. Im not wanting to spend a fortune, but ill probably spend around 500 bucks for all this stuff.

    With that being said, i need an upgrade.
    1) All new door speakers, no amp.
    2) 2 10" subs under my back seat (already have a box under there)

    Door speakers - Infinity Reference X REF-8602cfx 5"x7"/6"x8" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

    Subs - Alpine SWA-10S4 BassLine Series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

    Amp - Alpine MRP-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com



    Im new at this audio stuff so i tried to pick out stuff that will work together. I want to know if 1) this set up will work, and 2) would you do something different?
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013
  2. BlackThundah

    BlackThundah Aka LilWhiteFiddy

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    Hopefully someone will chime in that has bass experience, I had a 8'' kicker in my old reg cab and it worked awesome. I cant help you pair amps to subs though. Since you plan on getting a sub with your speakers you should look into some nice 3 ways. Since you wont need them to deliver a ton of bass because you'll have the sub, although if you want to crank up a bass setting then they will blast. I can't tell you a whole lot about alpine other then there a known name brand. If your just looking at them for the name you should do some more research before you buy because there are so many options out there. You should also look at some pioneer stuff too. I've ran all pioneer in both my trucks as have my friends and never had had one problem. Also before you buy anything, check for better prices. I love crutchfield, but there prices are sky high. I bought my headunit from them because i thought it was a good deal since it included the installation gear, but the speakers I got for 69 a pair vs 150 from amazon. (thanks to Joe). I don't if this helped at all, I'll try and find some links on some headunits and speakers tomorrow when I'm not half asleep.
     
  3. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor Straight Piped Diesel Staff Member

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    I was writing a great reply when stupud
    Microflop Winders update killed all my info.

    I'll re-write it later this morning.
     
  4. VanoFord

    VanoFord Banned

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    I would have to say that your amp is undersized. you are running 2 10" subs, at 4ohms a piece. They state "250A" but your peak power is 750A, which if you happen to crank things up, is more than your AMP can hold (running that amp for a 4ohm setup will only give you 350A, thats 175A/sub). I would upgrade to a 1000w amp MINIMAL. the larger amp will not only run cooler, but should deliver a more steady stream of power to the subs. make sure to get an enclosure for those subs that matches the specified air volume for them. this also is key for crisp sound.

    after installing everything, you will set your radio controls to "MAX Treble/MID or +0 Bass. This will give your door speakers the HI and MIDS in your truck, and then you tune your amp to make the subs give you the bass level you want.
     
  5. MyFX4Project

    MyFX4Project TRUCKIT

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    Thanks for the suggestions guys, ill keep them in mind. If anyone has anything else to add feel free.
     
  6. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor Straight Piped Diesel Staff Member

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    That JVC head unit is more than likely only
    putting out 14 watts RMS.
    I know it probably "says"
    50 x 4 watts on the face but realistically it is 14-17 watts RMS power.

    Peak power is just that, peak.
    The true reference number is RMS power.

    I'm running a MRP-F250 4 channel amp
    on my SPS-507 door speakers. I know it's
    40 watts RMS per channel which beats the
    fire out of 14 watts RMS on a standard
    aftermarket head unit's output.
    I used 16ga. speaker wire from the amp to each
    speaker instead of the 18-20ga. factory speaker wiring.

    You will find much better prices on amazon
    and most of the time free shipping.

    If you aren't going to run a 4 channel amp
    there is no need to buy the more expensive
    Infinty 8602cfx series speakers rated @ 60 watts
    RMS same power rating as the cheaper 8632cf cause you will only
    be driving them with the JVC's 14-17 watts RMS output.

    Unless you plan to later buy a 4 channel amp like the
    MRP-F300 rated @ 50 watts RMS @ 4 ohms.
    Don't forget an amp wiring kit, 4ga kit is suggested.
    Amazon.com: Power Acoustik AKIT-4 Amplifier Wire Kit with 4 Gauge 17ft and 3 ft Power Wires, 25 ft Speaker Wire, 17ft RCA and Turn-On Wire, 60A MAXI Fuse & Holder: Electronics


    Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 6832cf 6 x 8/5 x 7-Inch, 180-Watt High Performance Two-Way Loudspeaker (Pair): Car Electronics

    Amazon.com: Alpine MRV-M500 Mono subwoofer amplifier - 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms: Electronics

    Amazon.com: Alpine SWA-10S4 10" 750 Watts Peak / 250 Watts RMS 4-Ohm Bass Line Series Car Subwoofer: Electronics

    You will need Metra speaker adapters for the door speakers.
    Amazon.com : Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles : Coaxial Car Speakers : Electronics

    or you can cut the Ford factory plug off and use female crimp connectors
    to connect to the new speakers.

    If you wire those two SWA-10S4 4 ohm @ 250 watt RMS subs parallel you will get 2 ohms which is what that
    MRP-M500 amp is rated to run @ 500 watts RMS. The amp "sees" two voice coils in parallel which adds the
    250 watt RMS per coil rating making both subs wired parallel rated at 500 watts RMS total.

    Crutchfield rates those SWA-10S4 subs at 750 watts peak power.
    I never pay attention to peak power ratings, Crutchfield also says RMS power is a more accurate
    measurement of true power handling capability.

    Google and read about how to break in new subs.

    True that the sub box you have may not have enough air space
    for those SWA-10S4 subs, but there is the compromise on what
    space you have available vs a huge box that takes up the entire back of the truck.

    You could pack some poly fiber insulation into the dead space of the sub box
    to "fool" the speakers into performing as if they were in a larger box
    if there isn't any in the box already.

    Here are the suggested box volumes fore the SWA-10S4 subs.
    •sealed box volume: 0.65-1.0 cu. ft
    •ported box volume: 1.0-1.75 cu. ft.

    I have used this volume calculator before, I like it cause it gives
    a visual graphic if you change the dimensions of the box.

    Look at the "Enclosure Design Helper" section and the slider bars.
    Measure the box you currently have and input the dimensions
    if it doesn't have the enclosure volume listed on the box somewhere.

    http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013
  7. MyFX4Project

    MyFX4Project TRUCKIT

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    So instead of the ipod nano I won from the giveaway I ended up getting amazon money :)

    Thinking about using it on some audio stuff. Probably do subs first and then speakers next and Ill probably end up amping the speakers now. Any suggestions on a 5 channel amp?
     
  8. MyFX4Project

    MyFX4Project TRUCKIT

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  9. TLSF150

    TLSF150 Full Access Member

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    http://www.woofersetc.com/p-11666-sk-35001-skar-audio-monoblock-3500w-power-amplifier.aspx

    For real though if you want some good stuff stay away from the mainstream stuff..

    If I was you id get a MB Quart amp (their cheap and actually true power and pretty efficient..) I had a 1000 watt MB Quart on my Skar 12 and it never gave me any problems

    As far as subs go I love the Skar subs.. they have a full line of subs now for pretty much anything you want..

    Head units the main thing I always lookes for is the line out voltage.. most cheap head units only have 2v line outs.. they work but youll get cleaner power to your amps with higher voltage

    Door speakers you pretty much have to go to a audio store or somewhere you can listen to them and pick them out by personal preference..

    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2!
     
  10. TLSF150

    TLSF150 Full Access Member

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    Here was my old set up.. 1 Skar VVX 12 on a MB Quart 1000 watt amp in a custom box I built and tuned myself..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PwDsOeNDO8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

    Look at the back window movement around 40 to 45 seconds.. that was with 1 12 lol I promise you couldnt get one 12 kicker to hit like that lol


    Im really wanting to do another build now!! Damn lol..


    Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2!
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2013

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