How easy is it to remove/reduce a significant lift?

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by M116Fullbore, Nov 1, 2016.

  1. M116Fullbore

    M116Fullbore Junior Member

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    Looking at a 1994 F250 Here http://comoxvalley.craigslist.ca/cto/5823300090.html

    I saw it on the side of the road, took a look underneath and it looked really good(straight axle up front?), paint on the frame still(rust is a big issue out here), and the 5 spd 351 im looking for. Guy is selling for his son, doesnt have a lot of details(ive asked specifically about the lift, think that was a prior owner), has recent rotors wheel bearings.

    Problem is, its considerably higher sitting than I would like. Even with the 35's it has on it, it looks like its over lifted. Looked underneath, and about 3" of that lift is body lift, no idea how much suspension lift(4-6?).

    Anyways, my ideal truck setup would be 33's and lifted up just enough to clear over that.

    How difficult is removing a body lift back to stock? I think that would go a long way, even if it just made it look more proportional with 35's and not totally on stilts if i dropped to 33's.

    If it is a 6" or higher lift on the suspension, is it difficult to drop that down a bit too?

    Not looking to get down to stock, but definitely lower than current.
     
  2. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor Straight Piped Diesel Staff Member

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    Depends on how it was lifted.
    I - beam drop brackets are specific to that suspension lift height.
    You'd need the next step down I - beam brackets say 4".
    Then the coil spring swap to 4" lift out with the 6 " springs.

    Does the rear just use lifting blocks any one know if it has extra parts back there too?

    I'd say leave the body lift on, to much of a PITA to take it off.

    Someone else chime in with what they know or correct me.


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  3. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor Straight Piped Diesel Staff Member

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    But hey you are the one slinging the wrenches.

    Nice if you have air tools and a lot faster too.

    If it's not a straight axle it will be more expensive to lower the suspension. Cost of parts wise.

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    Last edited: Nov 1, 2016
  4. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor Straight Piped Diesel Staff Member

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    If it is straight axle, they may have used leaf springs on the front or
    Trac bars of some type with coils.

    May take till morning, some of our regulars are in AK and have fabrication experience with older 4x4.

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  5. M116Fullbore

    M116Fullbore Junior Member

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    Would have thought removing the body lift would be easier than messing with the suspension lift? Just a couple bolts(admittedly in tight spots probably) and wedging/jacking the body/bedup to pull out the spacer?


    Yes it is on leaf springs up front. From what I can tell(more of a bike guy than a truck guy) it is a solid front axle, and kinda looks that way in the pic too.
     
  6. M116Fullbore

    M116Fullbore Junior Member

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    Went looking for comparison example pictures, since im no good at identifying.

    Assuming this is a TTB setup on a F250
    [​IMG]

    and this is a dana 60 solid axle set up
    [​IMG]

    Then I would have to say it is indeed already set up with the solid axle. Dont know if it is that exact one, but it isnt the twin traction beam design.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2016
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  7. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor Straight Piped Diesel Staff Member

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    If it's the second picture you need a set of leaf springs arched at the lower lift height.
    Around $360 for leafs not including shipping.

    The rear should be lifting blocks.
    Not that expensive.

    The body lift for a '94 F250 had 19 bolts,12 bushings and 5 brackets to remove.

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  8. M116Fullbore

    M116Fullbore Junior Member

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    On a lift of that size(thinking 6" suspension lift) am I likely to see other components that have been increased in size? Like longer drive shafts, brake lines, clutch lines, linkage, etc?
     
  9. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor Straight Piped Diesel Staff Member

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    Brake lines, pitman arm.
    Might figure pitman incase it needs to go back to stock.
    Brake lines can be zip tied out of the way.

    Should be enough
    length in the spline joint at the transmission end of the drive shaft not to have needed lengthening.

    I know there is a slave cylinder for the clutch,
    but shouldn't have been an issue with just 3" body lift.

    I see no one else has put their 2 cents in on this thread.

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    Last edited: Nov 4, 2016
  10. M116Fullbore

    M116Fullbore Junior Member

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    Hey thanks for the replies though!

    Decided to pass on that particular truck. Had bald tires and 16.5" rims, since i later found out most 16.5"s had been discontinued like a decade ago, i would need to go to a new set of rims 16" or 17" and tires right away... more than i wanted to spend right off the bat.

    Think im gonna try and stick with a f150, keep the much cheaper 15" diameter rims/tires, etc.
     

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