need ideas

[mustangwarrior]

so i recently found some more rust on the rear fenders, i'm gonna do grey herculiner on the rockers soon as it warms up, anybody have any ideas on how to do bedliner over the fender, like a flare, but there is not a distinct body line and i dont want a crooked line, thoughts?

 

[PJB]

Honestly Id just get it fixed right instead of doing that.
Yeah its gonna cost more but its gonna look a hell of alot better.

 

[Raevsky97]

2nd this motion

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

 

[mustangwarrior]

well the previous owner already did, but what i dont get, it appears that new metal was spot welded in, the paint was matched and blended very well, but no bondo was used and now it appears the spot welds are rusting,

the plan is to grind it down and fix it right but rather than painting the whole bed side, to just add the bedliner, and in ohio it just seems like i'm fighting a losing battle with rust, i fixed a fender on my explorer, and it didn't matter, it just continued to grow

i'll try to snap a pic to show what i mean

 

[mustangwarrior]

PS rear fender

DS rear fender

DS front fender and PS is similar

and both door jams look like this

and both cab corners have a quarter size hole in the back of them, i just wanna take care of everything b4 it takes over the whole truck

 

[PJB]

Looks like theyre loaded with Bondo and its bubbling.

You need to get patch panels that replace the whole arch over the wheels and new cab corners.

If you just Bondo and bedliner it youre gonna get rust again.

Patch panels and fenders arent too expensive but the labor involved is fairly expensive.

 

[mustangwarrior]

that reason for the bedliner was to avoid bondo, stuffs thick so it doesn't show all the little marks like paint will

 

[PJB]

But what are you gonna do about the rust?
Bedliner isnt going to fill rust holes that are already there and its not going to stop existing rust bubbles from expanding.

 

[mustangwarrior]

the rear fenders aren't holes yet, just bubbles, i would take them down to bare metal, then i assume a primer/sealer? thin layer of bondo and then bedliner, i'm not a pro but thats the plan for the door jams, the front fenders and cab corners are going to get new metal, the only reason i don't wanna cut out the fenders is because i do not want to paint the entire bedside, the other holes are in the area that will recieve bedliner

heres the idea, this is mechanicalmike's truck from f150forum, but mine will go about an 1" above the body trim and i want a cleaner line on my fenders

 

[Roush PSD Interceptor]

Had a '81 F100 truck from up north given to me years ago.
They acted like it was a $4,000 truck, probably cause were overcharged being gullible and not looking under the truck.

I don't think they ever washed the road salt from under it.
Last trip up there 7 years ago, a car wash is like $4 for 3 minutes if even that long,
no wonder so many vehicles rust away from years in the north.
It was so bad the 7th month I owned it, the brake line on the frame to the rear brakes rusted into.
Fixed that and sold that rusty beech the next spring for $700. Fully disclosed the rust issues to the buyer before they paid for it.

That 1996 cancer will have to be cut out, a patch panel welded in, polyester filler, rust proofed with something and then you can bedliner it. I've heard of a product called POR-15, but I would think you can't just paint it over rust and stop the cancer.

The radius of the fender wheel well opening you want to match can be measured from the lip of the wheel well, how wide is the roller your going to use from the bedliner application kit? Wide enough to cover the width at the top of the previous repair?

Just line the clean roller up with one edge on the lip of the wheel well, maybe with a block of narrow wood and follow it around the whole opening keeping the clean roller in contact with your guide block. Marking it every couple inches, then you can come back with a narrow tape for a clean edge following your guide marks. Apply a wider tape over that further out maybe an additional width to cover any possible spillage, mess ups.

Practice free hand bending your narrow tapeline on the marks till you get something that looks like a good radius. Sounds like it's gonna take some experimenting as to see what looks good.