No Hi Beams or Fogs

Discussion in 'Audio & Electronics' started by JLOWERY, Oct 18, 2013.

  1. JLOWERY

    JLOWERY Full Access Member

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    They are DDM tuning they are the 4 wire bi-xenon they worked fine on hi and low at the shop drove home turned the truck let it set 2hrs when I started it all these problems started. When I jumped the high beam relay that should've bypassed everything I think but still no power at the plug and no fog lights without the relay mod where you ground the relay.
     
  2. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor 7.3L Straight Piped Diesel

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    Sounds like a hot spot in the high beam wire,
    a place where it has become disconnected
    either at a terminal crimp or within the wire itself.

    I would still test the light green/black for continuity from the
    high beam relay output terminal to the head light connector.
     
  3. JLOWERY

    JLOWERY Full Access Member

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    I'll try that tomorrow. I did probe that wire probably 3" back from the plug and still nothing I was hoping it was just the plug but both sides are dead. I wonder if there is anyway to wire it from the MFS straight to that supply wire to the high beam.
     
  4. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor 7.3L Straight Piped Diesel

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    The MFS is a light duty switch not rated for the
    20 amps needed to run both high beam lamps.

    That is the reason for the high beam relay.
    The yellow wire from the MFS triggers the coil
    in the relay to activate a larger switch.

    Another possibility is the relay is "clicking" put power is not being
    transferred thru the input/output contacts.
    Pull the relay, run a 20 amp fused 12 volt test wire to the
    light green/black output terminal of the relay to see if
    the high beams come on. If they do relay is bad.
    If not, the light green/black wire
    is not making a connection from the relay to the head light connectors.
     
  5. JLOWERY

    JLOWERY Full Access Member

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    Will this wire be coming out of the fuse box or is it the high beam at the plug.
     
  6. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor 7.3L Straight Piped Diesel

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    Light green/black coming out of the CJB "fuse panel"
    will be the same wire that is at the head light connector.
    More than likely the light green/black will be at the
    point where the high beam relay plugs into the panel.

    Applying fused power to it from a test wire will show
    that it is or isn't making a connection from the back of the fuse
    box all the way to the head light connectors.

    Wish I could be specific which hole to put the fused hot test
    wire into with the relay removed. The relay should have 4
    "holes" that it plugs into. Two "holes" are for the trigger ( + yellow wire)
    from the MFS and ground and the other two "holes" are
    for 20 amp supply power and output to the head lights via the
    light green/black wire.

    Hope this makes sense.

    I know it's not going to be easy to get to the backside of the CJB
    "Fuse panel" to see where the light green/black wire connects.
    This is why I'm suggesting to use the front side with the high
    beam relay removed to probe for the light green/black terminal.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013
  7. JLOWERY

    JLOWERY Full Access Member

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    OK got ya. I did jump across the relay and nothing happened. I will have to pull the fuse box to do this test to be able to get to the wire right?
     
  8. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor 7.3L Straight Piped Diesel

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    You should access the wire terminal without pulling the CJB.
    All you need to to is check for continuity of the
    light green/black wire either by sending a 12 volt hot
    into the open "hole" of the high beam relay or by checking
    with a multimeter/ohm meter.

    You will need about 8-10 feet of small gauge wire for the continuity
    test. One end goes into the light green/black teminal at the head
    light connector and the other end to the test meter red or black.
    The unused probe goes into the empty high beam relay slot that
    connects to the light green/black wire. Set meter to test for zero ohms.
    On digital multimeters there is a diode test setting that sounds a continuous
    beep when there is continuity.

    Some people find it easier to probe a fused hot test wire than to run
    a long loop back wire from the head light connector to a test meter
    inside the cab at the CJB.

    The head light connector plugged into the bulb on a fused hot wire probe test
    at the relay connection spot and unplugged from the bulb into
    the loop back test wire ran inside the cab on a continuity test.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2013
  9. JLOWERY

    JLOWERY Full Access Member

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    OK I'll check for continuity tomorrow. If it's got continuity then what?
     
  10. Roush PSD Interceptor

    Roush PSD Interceptor 7.3L Straight Piped Diesel

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    If the light green/black wire going to the high beams
    checks out to be good then the problem should be the
    relay itself or the power feeding to the relay.

    You stated the relay clicks when the MFS is activated,
    so that says the yellow wire from the MFS is working.

    Sometimes it is not as simple as replacing a relay
    or fuse. The problem may be in the wire or the
    factory crimp at a terminal in the suspected circuit.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2013

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