Raptor showoff!

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by 01f1502wd, Oct 10, 2013.

  1. AKBray907

    AKBray907 SUPER *********.

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    Will do,

    Did you notice the woody doll on the back? Haha
     
  2. AK SNO RIDER

    AK SNO RIDER Got Snow?

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    Ha! No I hadn't :jester:

    Sent from my SCH-R760 using Tapatalk 2
     
  3. TxFx04

    TxFx04 FFS Frequent Traveler

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    I think Trucks did that build. It was pretty sweet. Ended up being like 23k
     
  4. 01f1502wd

    01f1502wd going up? yes i am.

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    The 1/2 price Raptor was done by Xtreme 4x4 on spike...

    Xtreme 4x4


    has a dixon bros front end, some deavers and cage out back, and fiberglass raptor front one piece.

    I too love Raptors, but I concur that a built 10th gen would make me feel more confident in off roading, like if I accidently put a scratch on it, I could repaint or get a new fender for a couple hundred bucks, compared to a over 1k fender then get it PTM, my white is off from the sun over 13 years so PTM really is: kinda white.

    That one you posted up looks like it only has deavers, probably a full LT up front, that would cost ~3k for suspension, and atleast another ~2-3k on C/Os depending if you go one C/O or do a C/O with a 2.5/3.0 tripple bypass. oh 4wd or 2wd? 4wd will cost more because you need RCVs or any other high angle CV shafts/joints to handle the extreme angles to prevent binding and shredding of axles. Hubs: theres a bunch out there, most LT makers incorporate a bolt-on style hub, so you can change it out depending on what your doing, cheap would be D44 hub running your choice of bolt patterns for the easy prerunning, but if you huck it hard, you would need something a lot stronger, all can be swapped fairly easy.

    onto the rear, easiest way to go is deavers. soft ride, lot of travel for the price (~1k depending on what you get, more travel, stiffer overload, more leafs vs less leafs) BUT bad thing is deavers are a leaf pack of up to 13-15 thin leafs, meaning they will sag quicker than a normal pair of leafs, you will have to send it back to deaver to have "re-arched" shipping/boxing is on you...and leaf packs are heavy, they should do the work for free though. because you want lots of travel the stock shock location just wont do, theres not enough room for a 18in travel shock, therefore you have a couple options: 1. cut the bed and built a bed cage to house the shocks (like the one in that picture), option 2 which I would like to do on my truck: cantilevers. you will have to google it for pictures, but depending on what ratio you want to go with...you can go with a 2-to-1 ratio and run a 10" shock for ~20" of suspension travel...etc

    another option is to 4-link the rear, this is very pricey, most of the time you chop the entire rear section out of the truck right behind the cab, that axle will have a lot of suspension travel, up and down. here is where trailing arms come into play, they are your lower links, usually people with these run atleast a 3.0 C/O and 3.0 tripple bypass, you must be wondering how much these types of shocks cost....well one 3.0 anything is extremly pricey no matter who you go with, FOX/ICON/SWAY-A-AWAY....but KINGs are a lot more, were talking in the 3-4k range, all custom tailored to your specifications with tuned rebound/dampening, theres 2 springs on the C/Os, so thats 2 spring ratio/rates you get to play with, and the shock tube itself is threaded for even more adjustment! its awesome..but takes time and money.

    You dont do a 4 link and call it a day, by now your getting into some serious stuff. your rear is built and will be strong and will not flex hardly at all...in order to keep the entire truck in one piece you need more, a full roll cage interlinked with the bedcage, all triangulated and gusseted for strength, engine cage and beefed up mounts to everything. Hope you like cutting, the dash will have to be cut in order to fit the tubes, headliner gone to fit more tubes overhead (I have seen some clean headliners go up that bulge out the tubes for a more professional look, its sick). your dumping in loads of cash for a sweet truck right? lets keep the stock seats for the "stock" effect...WRONG! you want a full suspension seat setup, sure dump more loads of cash into heated seats for the cold winter. Your also going to have a custom exahust setup for more "horsepower" so the interior will be loud as going to the drag strip, best way to solve that issue and still be able to talk to your buddies: get a comm system with full on headsets and mics for your crew and be able to talk to fellow trail riders while traveling at 80+ over anything! thats gonna cost you a couple G's to get all setup. GPS: great invention to have when your in the middle of nowhere, cost: depending on what you want out of it 5-6k? dont take a regular garmin to the desert, your reception may not be good enough, and the tiny 2" screen doesnt cut it when your trying to find a geopoint 56 miles away hahahahaha so you need a lowrance system, easy 5k or so.

    I almost forgot the tools you will need to complete this project, and the spare parts you will need to carry with you while "prerunning" shovel, jack, spare tire or 2 at minimum.

    cost for me to do a mid-travel suspension front end on my truck:

    3k for upper/lower control arms, spindle with stock pressin snout, dual sheer heim steering and uniballs upper and lower.
    120 I think for the foam bumpstops from DAystar and bumpstop cans to hold them
    ~30 or so for the limit strap depending on what length I go with to limit the amount of droop I have to keep the uniball from bottoming out and sheering a bolt.
    3/8th plate steel for tabs/mounts for limit straps/bumpstops is 175 for 4'x8' sheet
    since Im only doing a mid travel and wont be going to glamis anything soon I wont need a cage, but those who do a cage dont use the weak sauce regular carbon steel, they use chromolly tube, much stronger and holds together really well when tig welded.
    price for chromolly tube: depending on your tube size and thickness: 1" tube with .035 thickness is .50/inch, *12inches to get into feet: 6 bucks a foot, x 20 ft = $120, you would need a couple hundred feet for a full cage of the truck...you do the math.

    Since I can use the stock spindle snout I can use OE brakes/hubs/wheels...etc most of yall know the prices of this. but for a bolt on snout that is bigger you wouldnt be able to use the OE accessories, bumping up to a D44 snout lets you use the older F150 bolt pattern of 5x5.5, you would need new brakes/calipers/wheels (method race wheels/robby gordon...etc all start to get expensive for RACE wheels, you want it to hold together when jumping it 15-20 ft in the air going 90+ right?) tires...well it would be worthless to get cheap highway tires, BFG baja's cost a fortune new, but used they get dirt cheap, but are made of a soft compond and can flat spot over night...so get a good set of A/Ts or M/Ts, the bigger the better and more soft your ride will be over the big whoops, a lot of small trucks like to run 35s, F150s can run 37-39s. up to you, you will have fiberglass fenders, ~5-700 for a pair +~250-400 for paint, bigger tire=bigger flare on the fender to sutff that rubber. too bad treadwright doesnt make a 37....ill wait.

    my leaf pack out back is a custom pack combining superlift's 5" softride pack and my old stock pack, I need more than 5" of lift to match the front, so I added in 3 of my thinner leafs into the new pack. the 5" pack cost a little less than 500 bucks shipped, thank you autoanything for price matching, a 15% off coupon and free shipping! with my mid-travel susp ill tear down and rebuild my leafs, I will take out the overloads and run just the thinner leafs with a thicker leaf, I dont know what exactly I will need but the front end will have ~12-14" of travel and sit at 5-6" of lift, rear will have 14-16" of travel and I have no idea how many leafs will be needed to level it, oh I will also be using lowering shackles to fit more leafs and give me more droop. Eventually I would like to "outboard" my shocks and run foam bumpstops and will have limit straps as well.

    i will be using my stock 9.75 rear diff with the yukon 4.11s and detroit mechanical locker, those building a truck with a 8.8 rear, I highly recomend using a 9.75 or bump up to the super duty rear axle or old skool ford 9" (perks of the 9: removable front section for easy access to the gears and diff) can usually be found in a junkyard pretty cheap, or go expensive and get a pro-rock 60/80 for a couple G's.

    total build: Hell I dont know. a lot. I would expect when I done with mostly everything it will be in the 7-8k range, for midtravel and fiberglass.

    a full build, sure a 1/2 price raptor gets you a lot for 15-20k, but a 60k OBS would be a pretty sick rig, a 100k prerunner has the ability to be called a prerunner because usually these trucks are actually that, racecar drivers use that truck to "prerun" a race, figure out where all the whoops and big jumps are before they take out their 500k trophy truck or buggie. all have big burly fully built V8s, lots of HP and TQ being planted to the ground, and its pretty cheap...wait...what? SPONSORS, DUH! if you put their sticker on your racetruck you can get free parts or CASH.


    oh I forgot to mention..this is for control arm type setup...what about beams? :p
     
  5. 97madness

    97madness Full Access Member

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    ^^ if anyone reads that, you're lucky.
     
  6. iowaredneck

    iowaredneck Administrator Staff Member

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    No way i am way too long and not a style that works for my needs. However the 10th gen does loom clean like that
     
  7. ak_cowboy

    ak_cowboy Penguin Hunter

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  8. str8t six

    str8t six never enough

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    [​IMG]
     
  9. 01f1502wd

    01f1502wd going up? yes i am.

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    :Nonono:
    :321:
    :STFU:



    :whistle:
     
  10. MyFX4Project

    MyFX4Project TRUCKIT

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    I read the first paragraph and then realized I had no idea what I was reading :jester:
     

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