Remote Starter- How to: For most 97-03 F150's. This one is specific for my 2003 FX4 5.4L I used the following kit from Autozone for ($79.99). It requires you to lose a programmed key(in the bypass module), but it also allows you to crank your truck with "CUT" keys from Lowe's to crank it afterwards. So, you truly don't lose a key. It's not the best setup, but its cheap and serves its purpose in the winter time. The one I used: (Cheap Route) Bulldog Security/Remote starter with integrated bypass module (RS82B) | Remote Starter | AutoZone.com Other options: Bulldog Security/Remote starter with keyless entry (RS1200) | Remote Starter | AutoZone.com Bulldog Security/Remote starter with keyless entry (D500B) | Remote Starter | AutoZone.com The kit I used will have the following materials all included. (Couldn't find a pic with all the materials, so I added the transponder ring wire to pic) Once you open your kit, you need to organize the wires accordingly. 1) Put the Large gauge wires together. These are all separate wires and only have a single pin molex plug on one end. -Both Fused Red Wires -White -White/Red -White/Black -Yellow/Black 2) 9-pin harness: 3) 4-pin plug: 4) Transponder key ring: (loop of wire) with a plug on one end. 5) Module itself Additional materials: General socket set Screwdrivers Electrical Tape Wire Cutters Small Zip ties A roll of small gauge wire (I used 18ga) Velcro/Screws for attaching module to the truck (under the dash) Lets get started: An open/clear place to work and splice wires. *****DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL******* The first thing you need to do is take off the plastic shroud surrounding the steering wheel. We will also need to take off some of the shrouds over the ignitions wires and fuse box in a moment. Here is how: (thanks to fairlaner) for some of the pics and info 1) Remove the steering column opening cover. Simply pull up from the bottom to remove the top shroud cover around the shift lever 2) Remove the lower instrument panel steering column cover to make it easier to get to the ignition wires and plug. Remove fuse panel cover Remove unused gray electrical connector from the lower instrument panel cover Remove 2 screws (7mm) holding hood release lever Remove 2 screws (7mm) holding parking brake release lever Remove 6 screws (2 - 8mm, 4 - 7mm) holding lower instrument panel cover Remove lower instrument panel cover 3)Remove ignition switch lock cylinder Turn the ignition to RUN position Insert a thin punch(or small screwdriver)into hole in bottom of steering column cover to push the release pin. Pull out the ignition switch lock cylinder while pushing in the release pin 4) Remove 3 screws (Philips) and remove the upper steering column cover. http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/bklb28/Remote/shroud3.jpg[ /IMG] 5) Once the 3 screws and ignition cyclinder is removed you will need to take off the steering wheel tilt knob. It simply unscrews, use a pair of pliers on the metal part. [IMG]http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o544/bklb28/Remote/IMG_5864.jpg We now have an open station to work with.
Wiring :thumbup: First we will concentrate on (1) The larger gauge wires you have separated. Fused Power Constant Power Wires (The Two "Fused" Red Wires) from the kit This connection will read +12V with key in any position including off. a) Use the Green/Purple wire in the ignition harness(see pic below) to splice into. b) Run your own +12V wire from the battery (I did this option) The following 4 wires will all be connected to wires in the ignition harness. Wires for reference: Here is the ignition wires/harness. Ignition Wires Ignition wires ((White) and (White/Red Stripe), both are of larger gauge) This connection will only read +12V with key in RUN and CRANK positions. -We will use 3 of our factory ignition wires. Blue/Green, Gray/Yellow, Red/Black. Blue/Green = Ignition #1 Grey/Yellow = Ignition #2 Red/Black = Ignition #3 The (White) wire from the kit will be spliced into BOTH, Ignition #1(Blue/Green) and #3(Red/Black). Yes, this means all THREE wires will be tied in together. Cut some of the wire insulation back, and splice all three together. The (White/Red) wire from the kit will be spliced into ignition #2(Grey/Yellow). Accessory Wire/s Larger Gauge (Black/White) wire from the kit. This connection will read +12V anytime the truck is not turned off. -Use the (Black/Light Green) wire in ignition harness to splice to the (Black/White) wire from the kit. Starter/Crank Wire Larger guage (Yellow/Black) wire from the kit. This connection will only read +12V when the key is turned over(when the starter is turning). -Use the (Red/Light Blue) wire in the ignition harness to splice to the (Yellow/Black) wire from the kit That completes all the ignition harness wiring.
9 Pin Harness Wiring Note: Some of these wires are optional (*6, 7, *8, 9) Wire and Function on the Harness 1) Black-Ground 2) Brown- Parking Light Output (+) 3) Black/Blue - Brake Input 4) Yellow/Black - Not needed 5) Blue - Aux input 6)Black/Blue- Hood pin switch 7) Black/White - Tach input 8)Red/Black - Factory Alarm Disarm 9) Yellow- Antenna Notes: 5 - Not needed unless you have installed an aftermarket alarm. *6 - Only Install if you want the engine to cut off when the hood is popped or if you don't want auto start to work when the hood is open. 7 - If you want it to start tachless, skip this. *8- Ford has no such thing as a Alarm Disarm Wire. It does have an alternative and its the Orange/Black wire coming from the alarm system on the drivers side firewall 1) Black- Goes to any ground location. Try to ground it in the drivers kick panel. 2) To properly complete this you will need to do these steps to get to the parking light main switch. Headlamp switch removal and wiring: Now we need to concentrate on the headlamp switch. First: Remove the knob on the switch. (just pull slightly) Second: Remove the outside bezel. (pull slightly or use a flat head) Third: Remove the Switch itself. (There are two prongs you need to lift up to remove the switch) Once you remove the switch platform itself, you will see two connectors on it. We will only be using the larger plug (the one on the right in the schematic). Now, before we splice anything; run a strand of 18ga wire through the opening where we just took out the headlamp switch and thread it down to the kick panel. At the kick panel we will attach this wire to the (Brown) wire on the 9-pin harness. Cut the access off and splice the other end of the wire to Pin#12(Brown) on the small plug (for the Parking lamps).
3) Locate the molex plug attached to the top of the hydraulic brake pedal arm. Run a small strand of 18ga wire, spliced from the (light green wire) pin #2 to the kick panel. 4) N/A 5) N/A Don't have an aftermarket alarm 6) You can do this if you choose so. It won't allow the engine to start when the hood is raised. 7) I chose to start my truck Tachless, so this wire is also not needed. 8) Ford Makes no such wire. If they did, PATS would a waste. 9) Yellow- Spread this wire out so your remote can transmit the best signal. Try to stay away from metal parts and keep it straight as possible. Finished with 9-pin Harness. ByPass Module/Transponder 4-pin harness We will only need Pin 3 and 4 for our next step. Pin #3= Red This wire will splice into any CONSTANT +12V . Pin #4= Orange This wire will simply connect to any ground location Now, Place your transponder loop wire(yellow and obvious) around the ignition switch. Then run the wires so that they come out at the module itself. This end should be at the device. Finished with bypass module. Finishing up Go back to the wires 1,2,3 from the 9pin harness. You should have already ran these wires to the kick panel. Attach a 1/4 female connector on the ends of each and attach them to the appropriate wire(double check). Now attach all larger gauge wires, 9pin harness, 4pin harness, and Key Transponder ring to the module. The module itself gives directions on which plug goes where. Place your key in the transponder via direction. Re-attach your neg. battery terminal. Follow remaining, programming steps in the manual. For the product I used, I only had to hit the rest button on the module 5-times and the LED indicator came on and showed it cleared the resistance code on the PATS module. Then I used my hand held remote to start up, worked first time! ****DISCLAIMER**** This is my how to, I don't take liability for any damage or injury that may occur when trying to install a remote starter the way I have proposed above. Install at your own risk.
you ripped the face off your headlight switch hahahahahahahahahahaha dont feel too bad, when mine finally came out 1/2 of it was broken, hot glue ftw. good write up btw
I have about 4 laying around lol. I make alot of junkyard trips. Got a few good GEM's for 4x4's if you know anyone in need.
