Alright guys, got er' done. sorry for pic quality, sister took her camera when she left tonight. Installation was easy as pie and only took me about an hour or so. hardest part is getting the links in and out of the stabilizer bar and lower control arm. TOOLS NEEDED: -2 socket wrenches -2-9/16" sockets for NEW links (at least one socket should be a long socket) -2 16mm sockets for OLD links (at least one socket should be a long socket) -Pair of vice grips (works great if you don't have 2 of the same size sockets) -Torque wrench to torque Links (16 to 21 ftlbs) -Impact drill (helps get the nuts off and on faster) DO NOT USE TO TIGHTEN NUTS ALL THE WAY -PB blaster for stubborn nuts -Hammer to tap the links in/out of control arm -Utility light -Good CD of your choice (mine was Haste the Day) Step one. Unbolt link Place one socket wrench with correct socket attached, on top of the stabilizer link where it goes through the stabilizer bar (of course i forget to take a picture) Place the second socket wrench on the nut of the link where it exits the lower control arm. (has to be a long socket) You may have to shoot some blaster on the nut and use some muscle to break it loose. I had to use a pair of vice grips on the passenger side OEM link, didn't have a 16mm long socket. Step two. Taking old link out. Wish i had pics for this part, i took some but my phone sucks and it don't have flash. When taking the old link out you may have to pry the bushings out, they might be stuck in the control arm/stabilizer bar mount. -Start by taking the nut and lower bottom bushing and washer off the link (control arm side, link is dropped in from top of stabilizer bar then through lower arm) -Next tap the link upwards with a hammer, link should pop right out of place. -Take off upper bottom bushing and washer (top of control arm) as well as steel tube. Steel tube is shown in pic below. -Once tube is pulled off, pull of the upper lower bushing and washer (bottom of stabilizer bar) -Pull rest of link through the top of the stabilizer bar. Step 3. Installing new links The bushings on the links have to be installed in a certain direction. The tapered part on the bushings need to be facing each other with the washer on the opposite side of the bushing. must be installed exactly like this: If you look at the bushings the skinny parts of the bushings are facing each other. -First put one bushing all the way on to the link with the washer going on first and the bushing second (again make sure the tapered part of the bushing is facing down, this part has to go into the opening in the stabilizer bar. -Slide link through stabilizer bar. -Push the second bushing onto the bar with the bushing going on first (taper towards the top of the link this time) and the washer second followed by the steel tubing. -Here's where it gets a little tough. You have to get the 3rd bushing on right after the steel tubing, after this bushing is put on the link needs to go through the lower control arm. Its a tight fit. what i did was place the 3rd bushing over top of the hole in the lower control arm (taper sitting inside the lower control arm hole) and push the link upwards a little bit so that it goes back up inside the tubing. Set the tubing on top of the washer and bushing. Once i got it on top of the washer and bushing i centered it the best i could with one hand and tapped the top of the link with a hammer until it went through the lower control are mount hole. -Once this is done you need to put the 4th bushing and washer on the link. This part is a little tricky as well. Put the bushing on followed by the washer (again the bushing taper must be facing the other taper on the bushing above). You'll notice once the washer is put on you cant get the nut on the bottom of the link. What i did was take the washer back off and put the nut on and tightened it a small amount to pull the all the bushings into place. i then backed the nut off, put the washer back on and put the nut back on and tighten with torque wrench. SPECIFICATIONS ARE 16-21 FTLBS Step 5. Repeat all steps for opposite side. Step 6. Test drive I noticed when i turned the truck didn't lean or Roll so much and it felt a lot stiffer. Easy install! Here's what my links looked like. I had one OEM link and one MOOG link on the truck. The MOOG link looks like it was torqued too much when installed. bushing are all smashed and torn up. The washers were actually sitting inside the bushings. I hope this helps someone. first actual write up i have done, wish i had a few more pictures of assembly but i am TERRIBLE at remembering when its good to take pics. If anyone has any questions please ask.
Did my drivers side 2 or so weeks ago, it didn't even have the rubber bushings on top. I couldn't get the nut to break loose, was probably the original, so I cut the bolt in half and hammered it out on both sides. Good job on the write-up, wish I had waited till I seen the post.
Thanks. yea the bushings were pretty bad on my drivers side link. they were about to fall off, luckily the links came off with a little force.
Jack and jack stand are not needed. this job is actually easier without the jack and stand. found this out a few months ago but never posted up.
Good looking informative pics, I had to do mine last spring cause they were snapped off. Pretty easy fix
very easy fix. i had this write up posted on f150forum for a while. i brought it over here and edited it. there is no need to left the front tires off the ground like i had stated before. in fact the first time i swapped em i did them by lifting one side of the truck off the ground and installing one at a time, ended up over torquing em and ended up splitting my bushings fast. just re did it a few weeks ago. good thing i get a discount on em ($7/ a piece for Moog)
