Some contacts are so corroded manual scraping is needed. CRC to clean and dielectric grease to preserve. I buy dielectric grease in the 3oz tube.
Here's a picture of my drivers side panel, they don't seem that corroded? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The switch contacts are hidden inside the housing under the buttons and past those prongs you see on the underside. I wouldn't recommend disassembly of the actual housings where the switch contacts are. Spray the CRC in the areas past those contact prongs that the wiring harnesses connect to. Sometimes there a tiny holes in the housing of the contacts that the straw tube on the CRC can penetrate to clean what is inside you can't see. Before plugging the harnesses back in, put dielectric grease on the metal contact points of the harness. Spray under the buttons on the top side also.
Okay thank you, I'll do this to each panel, and I'll update yall with what happens! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i am not referring to those connections. when mine went out, it was the striker under the actual button that became worn and wasnt making contact. the actual SWITCH not the connection to factory wiring.
Okay just to clarify, I'm gonna need to clean all three switch panels to fix the problem? That's why I thought it was a problem having to do with power cause when I switched the working switch panel from my back left door to the back right door, it still didn't work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
"Shotgun" Clean all of them. After that if them problem still exists, it may be the commutator to motor brush contacts. CRC will clean those too if ya can get to them inside the motor housing. CRC cleaner on the switches may not guarantee that the switch contacts have been ruled out as the cause. So if ya manually apply 12v DC voltage to the motor and they work it is definitely in the switches or the wiring harness and it's contact points. Manually applying voltage, be very careful to only do it VERY briefly, you don't want to run the window down or up past the regulator limits. If ya have someone who can depress the window switches while you check for voltage at the motor wiring harness connector with a digital test meter, you can also rule out bad switches. I said digital meter cause it's a good habit to get away from using the old "test light" checkers on newer vehicle's electrical circuits. Those old "test light' voltage checkers can damage newer electronic controlled circuits. Then ya have an even more costly repair.
Okay I know the motor works I'm sure of that, I plugged it into the other door and it worked flawlessly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Found the wiring diagram for a 2004 F150 Of course there is a microprocessor inside the master switch.
